Irish Flag, St. Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin
For the past couple of days I have given up aimlessly wandering the streets for actually seeing the sites. This, as it turns out, has been quite rewarding and I wish I had started earlier. I might have been intrepid enough to venture into the Northern part of the city to seek out the Museum of Modern Art. Ah well, another visit.
Tuesday, at Padraig's recommendation, I braved the hoards of American tourists to see the bog people at the National Museum. For those of you who don't know what these are, they are people whose bodies have been found preserved in bogs from having fallen in or being dumped there (which was often the case). You can read about the exhibition here. I enjoyed the rest of the museum tremendously - it was a terrific education in Irish history as well as a wonderful visual tour.
Abstract, Dublin
Next I was off to see the Book of Kells at Trinity College. It's a good think they've done a nice job creating an exhibition of wall-size replicas of the pages, complete with lots of marvy info about the scribes and the history of the book and the details about the art involved in the illuminations. Because once you actually make it in to see the book, well, you get to see two pages and you have to fight little old ladies and Italian students for space around the case. In a way, I found the Long Room upstairs more rewarding. It's this long (duh) vaulted room that is home to the oldest of the Old Library's books. For a bibliophile such as I, this was a treat. Not that seeing the Book of Kells wasn't worth the effort - now I can say that I have.
Eye, Temple Bar, Dublin
After this it was back to Temple Bar where I took some photos (no cameras allowed in museums, as you know). This eye, rendered in bronze and embedded in the curb, fascinated me. Who put it there and why? What does the eye see? What does it want us to see? It reminded me somewhat of the wonderful bronze sculptures by Mags Harriman that you see throughout Boston. But I digress.
This medallion is on the Sunlight Chambers building. According to my Time Out guide to Dublin, the building "harks back to the days when every Irish family had an industrial-sized bar of Sunlight soap beside the kitchen sink. The old building has a delightful double bas-relief frieze containing the sweet, if rather banal, phrase, 'Tell the Story of Soap.'"
Sunlight
And then it was back to the hotel to wash for dinner. I ate at a wonderful restaurant called bang (yes, that's how they spell it). You'll find a number of restaurants here to rival anything in Boston and chic and modern is catching up with quaint and pubby. One thing I have noticed is that the Irish cook with lots of salt. (I'm sure there's a metaphor to be made here - something about salt of the earth or another salt reference that my food and wine-sated brain could not recall when I had that thought last night.) But for a country whose culinary reputation rests on fish and chips and bangers and mash, I've had several amazing meals here in Dublin. I'm impressed that most of the chefs are committed to using locally grown organic vegetables and meats and bang's menu actually tells you where everything comes from. Blasphemy of blashphemies, I haven't eaten in a single pub nor drunk a single pint of Guinness.
This morning I woke up feeling under the weather. I lounged in my room and let the lovely people at the hotel bring me some breakfast - divine oatmeal I tell you! After breakfast and some Advil I decided it was time to brave the outside. I had an agenda after all. I took a walk through St. Stephen's Green, where an Irish ladybug decided to land on me. Who needs leprechauns when you've got ladybugs?
Stained Glass, St. Patrick's Cathedral, Dublin
First stop - St. Patrick's Cathedral. I loved St. Patrick's. It is beautiful and full of history and rich with photo opportunities. Note to self: bring tripod next time. There were many shots I just couldn't get without a tripod - wonderful soft light filtered through stained glass, casting shadows on faces in dark corners and niches. I did manage to get a number of great shots though - too many to post here but I'm giving you some of my favorites.
Flowers, Dublin Castle
Then it was on to Dublin Castle. I didn't have the patience to wait for a tour so I wandered around the grounds. More photo opps. As it is part of the castle compound, I went to the Chester Beatty Library (another of Padraig's recommendations) which was a nice collection of rare books and Asian artifacts. Sensory overload was setting in. And the afternoon was getting late. It was time to hit some shops to buy souvenirs for my family before everything was closed.
Religious and Civil Liberty, Dublin
One of my stops was St. George's Market Arcade, which I've mentioned before. I was tempted to buy an athame but just didn't want to take the risk with airport security. For the record, the best non-tacky, honestly-made-in-Ireland gifts I found (at least all in one easy-to-hit-at-the-last-minute place) were in Nassau Street. Tweed, crystal, linen, celtic jewelry, you name it. Nephews, check. Mom, sister - check, check.
As I made my way back to my hotel, arms laden with goodies destined for home, I couldn't resist taking some photos at St. Ann's Church. It's a lovely little church in Dawson Street. The other morning, as I was on my way to Cafe en Seine, I saw a priest there giving money (or food) to a homeless man sitting on the front stoop.
Spirit, St. Ann's, Dublin
I have a soft spot for this little church that's not as grand as some of the others I'd seen but I found some of the most magickal faces in it's slightly worn limestone facade. I also loved the way its red doors cast a rosy glow on all of the white stonework.
Tonight, on my last night in Dublin, I've decided to eat here at the hotel, where they've been taking good care of me. Have to pack! Tomorrow will be an early morning.
See you all back in Boston.
Slainte!
Posted by Angela-Eloise at 5:15 PM
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. We can't exactly call it an album or even a CD when we download it from iTunes, can we?
